East to West
I won’t insult your intelligence by reversing the above. So how about taking Etosha at a more leisurely pace? You will get to see more of the park than just the most popular waterholes.
With five nights in the park you can afford to spend time to cultivate the perfect safari experience, perhaps utilise the game-drives provided by the camps themselves to get a better chance of finding that once in a lifetime Leopards sighting.
This itinerary is perfect to complement a three-week self-drive tour around Namibia. With a shorter 2 week tour I would suggest either three or four nights only in Etosha, to allow more time for the rest of this magnificent country.
If you’re approaching Windhoek or the Caprivi regions, then it’s easy to enter Etosha at the Von Lindequist gate near Namutoni camp at the very eastern extreme of the camp. Most visitors from Windhoek will head straight for Andersson Gate, so this itinerary goes somewhat against the grain.
If you are so inclined you could replace a night or two inside the national park with a stay in Onguma private reserve which abuts the park on the eastern flank. Camping here can be cheaper than inside the park, but there are upmarket options too. Advantages of visiting a private reserve include being able to participate in bush walks and other activities not available within the National Park boundary.
Accommodation – 5 nights
We recommend 5 nights accommodation within the National Park, although this can be extended to suit your preferences. All accommodation must be booked through NWR (Namibia Wildlife Resorts) before arrival, and it’s advisable to book many months in advance, especially in high-season. Within the National park boundary, NWR is the only accommodation provision.
Night 1 – Onkoshi
Night 2 – Namutoni
Night 3 – Halali
Night 4 – Okaukuejo
Night 5 – Olifantsrus
Onikoshi gives a feeling of remoteness, it is the smallest and most exclusive of the camps within Etosha and has a spectacular view looking west out over the Etosha pan. Note there is no camping here, only luxury chalets, and you can get transfers from Namutoni camp.
Namutoni is a large camp, only 20 minutes or so from the park entrance in the easternmost part of the park. Built around an old German fort, there is plenty of accommodation of all types including camping and rooms. The floodlit waterhole is not as prolific with game as the Okaukuejo or Halali waterholes, but is a comfortable place to spend the evening.
Halali is a smaller camp, with a large number of camping berths, so this is the camp you will most likely be able to book accommodation at if you haven’t been as organised and are booking last minute. Here there is a fantastic floodlit waterhole which really is unmissable. Whilst we were here we saw six black rhino at the waterhole, a once in a lifetime experience.
Okaukeujo is the flagship Etosha camp, it is the most accessible from Windhoek and has the largest capacity of all Etosha camps. There are fewer camping berths here than at other camps, however there is an array of rooms and luxury chalets available. The jewel in the crown of Etosha is the famous floodlit waterhole at Okaukeujo, a fantastic opportunity to view Black Rhino up close in their natural habitat. The camp fills up more quickly than the others, so be sure to book well in advance.
Olifantsrus is a newer campsite in the western half of Etosha. This is your option for camping in the western part of the park, the other camp in this area is Dolomite camp which only provides chalet accommodation. Olifantsrus has an exceptional hide with two levels for eye-level game viewing with the elephants which frequent the waterhole late in the afternoon.
Day 1 – Entering Etosha – Namutoni
Approaching from Grootfontein, Tsumeb is the last chance to stock up on fuel and provisions when entering the park from this direction. There are fuel stations at three of the camps in the national park, however these are unreliable and expensive so better to prepare outside the park. The next fuel station on exit of the park is at Kamanjab this is approximately 550km away depending on how much game-driving you do, so be sure to have adequate range. A full 140L in a duel-tank Hilux (standard rental 4×4) will give you more than enough leeway, at 11L/100km a full main tank should be sufficient but do ensure you are well-prepared. There is fuel available outside the park at Etosha Trading post 5 minutes south of Andersson Gate if needs must, but filling up at beforehand is most preferable.
Von Lindequist Gate near Namutoni is 100km or about an hour’s drive north of Tsumeb. Payment of park fees can be made here, card is accepted. Be sure to have your accommodation confirmations ready to be checked by gate staff, these should be paid in advance via the NWR website.
It’s only a short drive from the park gate to Namutoni camp, so you should have time for at least a short stop at one of the nearby waterholes. Klein Namutoni is a classic Etosha waterhole and a great introduction, if you have time the Dik-Dik drive loop is also a great easy drive, and you’ll have many great Dik-Dik sightings here, a beautiful small antelope which is uncommon in the rest of the park.
If you have a transfer organised to Onkoshi make sure you reach Namutoni in good time. If you are self-driving, allow one-hour, but it’s unclear if this option is still available.
Day 2 – Namutoni
Ensure you make the most of your seclusion at Onkoshi camp, it’s a special location and doesn’t see any non-residents visiting. Sunset here will be particularly special looking out west over the pan.
Namutoni is relatively speaking close to Onkoshi, so you will have plenty of time for your daily game drives, and to make the most of facilities in the camps.
Our favourite waterholes here in the eastern end of the park include Koinachas, Chudop, and Kalkheuwel. Whilst you are in the vicinity of Onkoshi you can take advantage of the proximity to Klein and Groot Okevi waterholes, and take a detour around the Fischer Pan loop. This is great cheetah country and also had frequent Leopard sightings whilst we were there so this visit should take up a large proportion of your day.
Be sure to arrive inside the Namutoni camp before the gates close, which is likely to be sunset, but times can be checked at the park gates and the entrance to each camp.
Day 3 – Namutoni to Halali
Only 70km away from Namutoni, Halali camp is again only a short drive away, practically neighbours in Namibian terms.
If you’re out driving the entire day you can afford to take in a loop of Eland Drive or the Okerfontein loop next to the pan. Even then you will likely still have time for lunch and a dip in the swimming pool at either Namutoni or Halali camp.
Be sure to visit the pan lookout, roughly 3/4 of the way to Halali on the right off the main east-west route. Driving out onto the salt pan is an unforgettable experience with vast views in every direction. No animals venture out here so it is one of the few places you are free to leave your vehicle. It’s very bright so don’t forget sunglasses!
Nearer to Halali, Goas is a fantastic waterhole, and would be a perfect late afternoon spot. It is known for a good concentration of predators including Leopard and Hyena. However on our visit we were privileged to watch four young lion cubs playing at the water’s edge whilst the rest of the pride watched on.
Once set up at Halali camp, you must visit the Moringa floodlit waterhole late in the evening. We were treated to a spectacular 6 (six!) black rhinos drinking at the waterhole and interacting with each other. This included a tense standoff with a herd of elephants, who eventually won out.
Day 4 – Halali to Okaukuejo
With the extra time afforded with 5 nights in the park, you can be afford to be more circumspect with your safari options. Re-visiting Goas in the morning light might reveal a different scene, and likewise we had good fortune at the nearby Rietfontein.
Another option is to spend the morning on the benches at Moringa waterhole. You never know what might emerge from the bush next
The Sueda, Charitsaub, Salvadora detour is a highlight. There are great views over the Etosha pan and surrounding grassland and this is prime Cheetah country. We found ourselves continually returning here on our visit.
Aus, Olifantsbad and Gemsbokvlakte form a neat loop, and with strong concentrations of general game they make a great midday soujourn. At Aus we were graced by the presence of a majestic Eland, in addition to two enormous herds of elephants competing for the freshest water.
Okondeka is a great detour if you have time, in a picturesque location on the edge of the pan, and famous for some great predator sightings. Only 20 minutes north of Okaukuejo it is possible to stay here until fairly late.
Be sure to spend time this evening at the Okaukeujo waterhole, it is famous the world over for it’s black rhino population and it will for sure be the highlight of your whole trip.
Day 5 – Okaukeujo to Olifantsrus
In the west of the park, past Ozonjuitji m’Bari, game becomes much more sparse. You would be better served exploring the loops nearer Okaukeujo, either up on the western flank of the pan, or down south towards Ombika and Andersson Gate. The latter will likely be busier with coach loads from outside the park and is the most easily accessible location in Etosha.
The Moringa Forest with it’s gnarly looking trees giving a haunted feel, is a short detour off the main road, and there is also a toilet stop and picnic area nearby.
Ozonjuitji m’Bari is the limit for day tourers from Okaukeujo. West of here park access is theoretically limited to Dolomite or Olifantsrus camp residents, although there is no barrier. Waterholes after this are mostly dry, and are evenly spaced every 10-20km or so along the only road heading westwards. They are unlikely to be productive stops until you reach . Tobiroen was a great stop for us with lots of antelopes and zebra.
Olifantsrus is a tidy, camping only enclosure. There is a great exhibition on the elephants of Etosha, and a small shop and ablutions block. Elephants are well known for coming down to drink at the waterhole in the afternoon and the excellent hide will be a great place to spend late afternoon or evening.
Day 6 – Exit
West of Olifantsrus you have two options. There is a direct route to Galton Gate via Jakkalswasser and Renostervlei. If heading out this direction you should anticipate 90 minutes of driving time.
If you loop around the long way via Dolomite camp, be sure to stop by the excellent Klippan, and possibly pop in to Dolomite camp for a drink at the bar and the view from the pool.
Upon leaving the park at Galton Gate, it’s less than an hour south to Kamanjab which is the nearest town and has a shop and fuel station. If heading north allow 2.5 hours to reach Opuwo.
If 5 nights isn’t for you, how about checking out our alternate Etosha itineraries in our Etosha guide?
Small Holiday Big Dream 