West to East – 3 nights
A simple four-day, three-night itinerary across Etosha from West to East. Mirroring exactly our journey through the National Park. This itinerary is perfect to complement a two-week self-drive tour around Namibia.
If you’re approaching Etosha from the Damaraland or Skeleton Coast regions, then you’ll likely end up wanting to enter Etosha at the westernmost end of the National Park.
Accommodation – 3 nights
We recommend three nights accommodation within the National Park, although this can be extended to suit your preferences. All accommodation must be booked through NWR (Namibia Wildlife Resorts) before arrival, and it’s advisable to book many months in advance, especially in high-season. Within the National park boundary, NWR is the only accommodation provision.
Night 1 – Dolomite Camp
Night 2 – Okaukeujo
Night 3 – Namutoni
Dolomite camp is situated atop a rocky dolomite ridge in the far western end of the park. The only accommodation here is chalet rooms which are priced at roughly £100 per person per night during low-season, and £140 pppn in high-season, and therefore may not be suitable for those on the tightest budget. It is however the cleanest and most well-run of the camps in the park perhaps owing to this fact. Dinner and breakfast are served in the restaurant at additional cost, and there is a cozy bar and swimming pool overlooking the vast plains to the west, an ideal sunset lookout.
Okaukeujo is the flagship Etosha camp, it is the most accessible from Windhoek and has the largest capacity of all Etosha camps. There are fewer camping berths here than at other camps, however there is an array of rooms and luxury chalets available. The jewel in the crown of Etosha is the famous floodlit waterhole at Okaukeujo, a fantastic opportunity to view Black Rhino up close in their natural habitat. The camp fills up more quickly than the others, so be sure to book well in advance.
Namutoni is the easternmost camp, built around an old German fort. Here there is plenty of accommodation of all types including camping and rooms. The floodlit waterhole is not as prolific with game as the Okaukuejo or Halali waterholes, but is a comfortable place to spend the evening.
Day 1 – Entering Etosha – Galton Gate
Kamanjab is the last chance to stock up on fuel and provisions when entering the park from this direction. The next fuel station on exit of the park is at Tsumeb (or Oshivelo) this is approximately 550km away depending on how much game-driving you do, so be sure to have adequate range. A full 140L in a duel-tank Hilux (standard rental 4×4) will give you more than enough leeway, at 11L/100km a full main tank should be sufficient but do ensure you are well-prepared. Fuel is nominally available at the three main camps (Okaukuejo, Halali, Namutoni) however runs out frequently and should not be relied upon. There is fuel available outside the park at Etosha Trading post 5 minutes south of Andersson Gate if needs must, but filling up at Kamanjab is most preferable.
Galton Gate is less than 45 minutes North of Kamanjab. There you can complete the requisite paperwork and get your permits. Be sure to have your accommodation confirmations ready to be checked by gate staff. Park maps are available to buy at the gate but were out of stock when we were there, the shop at the gate is generally poorly stocked.
Be sure to arrive by mid-afternoon at Galton Gate to make the most of an afternoon game drive. Dolomite camp is roughly an hour’s drive from the park gate, and there are a few waterholes to visit along the way. The best of these in our opinion is Klippan, which is roughly 15 minutes from Dolomite camp. Be sure to arrive at camp before sunset, if in doubt, check the camp gate closure times at Galton Gate when entering the park.
Day 2 – Dolomite to Okaukuejo
Don’t underestimate the driving time required today. There is 175km between the two camps, all on well-maintained gravel roads with a maximum speed of 60 km/h. Toilet stops are few and far between so do plan ahead.
Olifantsrus makes an excellent stop, there is a great exhibition on the elephants of Etosha, and a small shop and ablutions block. Elephants are well known for coming down to drink at the waterhole in the afternoon, however it may not be wise to wait for them as you will not make it to Okaukuejo by sunset if you stay here too long. Elephant sightings on your trip up till now will have been sparse, if you were lucky enough to see desert-adapted elephants in Damaraland then you’ve already had a treat. If you’re yet to see elephants, don’t fear, there will be many many more elephants to see further east in the park.
Tobiroen was a great stop for us with lots of antelopes and zebra. Waterholes after this are evenly spaced every 10-20km or so along the only road heading eastwards. However they are unlikely to be productive stops until you reach Ozonjuitji m’Bari
Next you will reach the Moringa Forest with it’s gnarly looking trees giving a haunted feel, it is a short detour off the main road, and there is also a toilet stop and picnic area nearby.
Okondeka is a great detour if you have time, in a picturesque location on the edge of the pan, and famous for some great predator sightings. Only 20 minutes north of Okaukuejo it is possible to stay here until fairly late.
If you are ahead of time you might consider Ombika near Andersson Gate, or perhaps the Nebrownii, Gasseb, Gemsbokvlakte loop.
Be sure to spend time this evening at the Okaukeujo waterhole, it will be the highlight of your whole trip.
Day 3 – Okaukuejo to Namutoni
Less distance to cover today, and many many more waterholes and safari loops to visit. We have suggested a few select waterholes but in reality you can make your own route and perhaps have much more success.
The Sueda, Charitsaub, Salvadora detour is a highlight. There are great views over the Etosha pan and surrounding grassland and this is prime Cheetah country. We found ourselves continually returning here on our visit. Nearby Rietfontein was also very productive for us, only a hundred metres or so off the main road it’s no diversion.
Etosha Pan lookout is a must for any visit to the park. Driving out onto the salt pan is an unforgettable experience with vast views in every direction. No animals venture out here so it is one of the few places you are free to leave your vehicle. It’s very bright so don’t forget sunglasses!
Closer to Namutoni or favourite waterholes were Kalkaheuwel and Koinachas. We watched a hyena take a bath at he former, and the latter provided us with a great sighting of three young Cheetahs. Chudop is a classic example of an Etosha waterhole.
At the end of the day don’t miss Klein Namutoni and Dik-Dik Drive, these are mere minutes away from the gates of Namutoni, and therefore great for viewing game near sunset. Great luck with leopards had been recently had near Dik-Dik drive whilst we were present. We didn’t see one here, but the sighting book at Namutoni was chock-full of leopard sightings here.
Shortly after sunset witness the cacaphony of birds flying into the reeds at the floodlit King Nehale waterhole at Namutoni.
Day 4 – Exit – Von Lindequist Gate
Be sure to leave at sunrise on your last day. Some of the best game viewing opportunities are on offer at this end of the park. We saw Cheetah at Koinachas, and a Leopard near the airstrip at Namutoni. Fischer Pan was productive for both Leopard and Cheetah from reading the sighting book, turning left immediately on leaving the Namutoni gate will take you right to the prime location on this route.
We also caught sight of a White Rhino up this end of the park on our last day, so be sure not to waste any time!
The exit of Etosha is only 15 minutes or so away on one of the few tarred roads in the National Park. Remember you can’t take any raw red meat with you, so make sure you’ve eaten it all the night before.
The nearest main town is Tsumeb, one hour and fifteen minutes or 100km away from the Von Lindequist gate. However if you’re desperate for fuel there is a station available 30 minutes away to the north in Oshivelo.
Let us know what you think of our ideal 3 night Etosha itinerary
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